THE YORKSHIRE WINE REVOLUTION
BurgundyNick investigates the Yorkshire Wine Revolution
Yorkshire must be doing something right for eighteen producers, with a few more in the pipeline, to be producing such drinkable wines. Jo at Carlton Towers, in Goole, proudly states, “Our wine is only available from Carlton Towers, and our wedding couples often chose to serve it to their guests.” They must be more than merely acceptable if couples are choosing to serve them on their special day.
Building on this momentum Peter Kirk, from Towthorpe Vineyard which started in 2018, has set up yorkshirevineyards.co.uk as a place to upload and discuss all things Yorkshire Viticulture and Yorkshire Wines related. He underlines that by saying, "What we are trying to do as a group of Yorkshire Vineyards is raise the profile of our wines and make some noise."
With that in mind, I decided to buy a few bottles and put Yorkshire wine to the test with my neighbours.
I drank the Carton Towers’ Sparkling Rosé, and it had a beautiful expressive nose of brioche, strawberry, citrus and apple. The gentle toastiness of the wine didn’t overwhelm the fruit. The palate was fresh, lively and balanced. The generous strawberry fruit gave it a feel of sweetness, so worked well as an aperitif but went well with the strawberry pavlova. Everyone loved it and the bottle was quickly dispatched.
In conclusion, Yorkshire wine may still surprise people, but perhaps it should not. The county now has, ambition, resilience and, most importantly, producers making genuinely enjoyable bottles. Yes, its climate brings challenges, but as winemakers are working with the elements and experimenting with varieties well suited to the north, they are starting to make ripples, hopefully turning to waves soon. The wines I tasted were not curiosities or local novelties; they were characterful, drinkable and proudly rooted in place. From sparkling rosé to expressive whites and lighter reds, Yorkshire showed it could offer far more than most people expect. The revolution may be quiet, but it is certainly worth raising a glass to.
